I’m back from 4 days in the countryside, which I recap below. We traveled to check out the deer stone project funded by the U.S. Embassy.
Day 1:
Driving. Driving. More driving. We left “civilization” and paved roads to kick it in “real Mongolia.” Shocking, to say the least. From what I can tell, UB is the most industrialized part of Mongolia. Other towns consisted of shanty’s posing as restaurants, hotels and art shops, with little or no running water/electricity. I prayed several times a day for reasons pertaining to sanitation, as we were served food in bowls that were clearly poorly washed by people who were clearly poorly washed.
The number one thing that concerns me about the countryside is the lack of medical attention. On our way back to UB, we stopped to eat in a little town and met a boy whose eye was red because a fly had laid three eggs on it. There was nowhere to take him. No hospital, no ambulance, no doctor’s office. My coworkers offered eye drops, which may or may not have helped (or hurt) him, and there was nothing more that could be done. My coworkers would say things like “Ah, no worries, drink this homemade vodka, very good for your liver.” I would look at them and think “Yes, but how do you know?” I was particularly afraid as a westerner, because my immune system, due to our sanitation standards, is certainly not up to par with the Mongolians’. Their ability to handle certain conditions is far better than mine.
At any rate, we met up with Bayar, the director of the archaeological team that was heading the Deer Stone project. We followed him and his team to a separate site they had been excavating- local legend holds a king once lived there. I was able to take away (with permission) a shard from the traditional Asian style roofing tiles. Very exciting. Almost made me wish I had continued my work in archeology.
The hotel we stayed at that night was shanty-like, but with exceptional service. All country-dwelling Mongolians seem to be particularly eager to host travelers, regardless of payment. We had two meals at the hotel and the total for our stay came to about 10,000 tugrik- or $6.50.
Day 2:
We made it to the deer stone site. We received a briefing on the history of deer stones before watching them place the last one.
The stones in Arkhangai are several thousand years old. They had lain broken and subject to element/animal abuse for several hundred years, after nomads removed them in order to build a small village. Bayar and his team had stood them upright (quite a feat, since the largest weighed about one ton) in cement, in hopes of restoring their historical heritage.
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HISTORY OF DEER STONES IN ARKHANGAI
A deer stone is a vertical slab of stone carved into the shape of a person. The “person’s” clothing depict many reindeer for speculative reasons- Bayar’s team believes it is because Mongolian legends state that they descended from the reindeer and that the deer are great protectors. The “person” also has a necklace and belt, which denotes their status. Only once has a deer stone been found with a face carved into it. Bayar believes that the faces were painted on and have since worn off with age/ torment of the elements.
Each stone once stood erect, facing the sun, and guarded a mass grave of horse bones. It is believed that the deer stone stood as a memorial to the man to whom the horses belonged (according to tradition, whenever a great man died, his horses would be slain so they could carry him to the heavens). The site at which we stayed is the largest deer stone site in Eurasia.

Sketching the images on a deer stone.

Close up of the reindeers on the Deer Stone.
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Fun fact about Mongolia: one of their biggest sports is volleyball. They even have a mock “beach volleyball” tournament that is televised annually. We played for the better part of the day, although I had no clue about the rules and mostly just got in the way or made unintentionally amusing errors. My team did win in the end
That evening, we made merry at a neighboring ger camp.
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GER LIFE
GER (Pronounciation: GARE) A round hut lived in by the nomadic Mongolians.
It is customary for men to enter a ger first and sit next to the host, followed by the women.
Mongolian tradition holds that the host must pass around a bowl of Airag (fermented mare’s milk) to each person, beginning with the men, and then at the same time offer homemade vodka. It is rude to refuse the host, so one must sip on the Airag (or if one is Mongolian, gulp it down) and the vodka, while taking and returning the bowl in a particular fashion. This happens at least three times. Unfortunately, Mongolians are not unlike Native Americans in the fact that they are very susceptible to liquor and quite easily become drunk. (This experience was repeated whenever we met with a ger family: three rounds of Airag and homemade vodka. It didn’t matter the time of day. And what was particularly unnerving was that we were often driving when they would decide to stop for a drink or meal.)
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As the only American, I was given what was jokingly called the “seat of honor” and was asked to sit on a Mongolian saddle (there were not enough seats). Our host, who was already drunk when we arrived, then led us all on a rousing chorus of whatever came to his head. As customary, we each left a small gift in appreciation of their hospitality. Although I was a little concerned at the time, it turned out to be one of the more enjoyable countryside experiences.

A ger.
Day 3:
We left the Deer stone site and went to visit the old capital of Mongolia, Khor Khorum. We had several adventures while visiting one of the oldest monasteries in Mongolia, which includes one of my coworkers climbing up onto a platform with Monks while they were calling other Monks to prayer so she could have a picture with them; taking footage of the Monks during their ritual chants *CLICK HERE* (Sorry it’s so shaky. I wasn’t supposed to take a video/pictures, so I was trying to act “normal”, haha…maybe they didn’t want anyone to see that one had to pay in order to pray…what’s up with that?) and finding a ladder so we could scale the monastery wall to reach the otherwise unreachable guard tower. We also stopped by several popular open markets to buy gifts. I’m assuming the items for sale, many of them old relics, were stolen.

Monks issuing the call to prayer.

Temple.
We also took a detour to see a “natural wonder”: a rock in the shape of a particular male organ. I highly doubt it is a natural creation, but the other’s seemed to think so.
That night we stayed in “Dreamland,” a very nice so-called resort (probably titled so because they actually had showers and real bathrooms). Every building was a ger, including the on-site restaurant.
Day 4:
Drive, drive, drive. More driving.
Unfortunately, I got food poisoning from the breakfast at Dreamland (ironically, it was eggs and bacon), and spent the whole trip back vomiting. I felt really bad for my coworkers, but they were very patient with me. While I’m on the subject…
FOOD
Meals
Mongolian countryside food is very different from the food in the city. The land is not arable, so Mongolians mostly eat fatty sheep. While in the countryside, I was able to try lamb, lamb heart, lamb liver and lamb lung (very tough. And stretchy). I asked for lamb brain, but apparently it is a delicacy. The lamb is often boiled, since it is easier to cook in that manner. We did try “Mongolian barbecue,” – grilled lamb. I highly recommend it.
Mongolians will occasionally eat Marmot, but Americans were warned not to eat it because they carry the bubonic plague.
Otherwise, “soup” with noodles is the meal. Drinks, other than Airag and homemade vodka, consist of milk-tea (milk mixed with water and salt). If one let it sit for a while, a fine film of curd would appear at the top.
Snacks
Little bars made of curd and topped with yogurt are generally eaten for snacks. Mongolians also make nice little breadsticks.
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Anyway, it was a great experience and I’m so glad I was able to go!
Well, that’s quite a bit of writing! I’m signing off for now! Hope everyone is well!
Hannah